Our driver Faghmeda picked us up at 8am and we headed to Table Mountain. The skies were blue with not a could in the sky, so we were hopeful that the views would be amazing, and we were not disappointed. An early start is essential as the the queues can be horrific. Fortunately Faghmeda dropped us at the top where the gondola starts. Cars were already parked for about a kilometre down the mountain road.
Tickets are 490 S.A rand or close to $50 NZD. You can buy them online to avoid queuing twice, but being nice and early made it a pretty quick experience for us. Also we are off season.
It was a little disconcerting being crammed into the large circular gondola, almost like catching a train in Japan in rush hour. The gondola slowly spins to give everyone a view as we ascend.
Already the cloud was beginning to roll in. It sits atop Table Mountain and they call it the table cloth.
It was certainly brisk when we alighted from the gondola, but not windy, so not too unpleasant. The views were outstanding, and we expected it to be flat on top, but it was quite rugged. Paths and stairs made it easy to navigate and several viewing areas made the vistas available from every angle.
Soon the mist began to envelop the mountain and it was time for us to descend. Alas, Sandi had lost her return ticket. Yes ‘return’ you can purchase a one way ticket and walk down, or abseil down! Crazy!
I did spot this sign. What on earth is a Dassie? Google tells me that is also called a cape hyrax, and has provided this pic. Looks like a quoka to me!
Anyway, we located the ticket office and in no time Sandi had a replacement ticket. We had to give our phone numbers when purchasing and this efficient system meant that Sandi’s ticket could be easily replaced.
A Lance sort of bus
Back in the car with Faghmeda, she whisked us off to Boulder Beach, taking the inland route and we would take the coastal route on our return. This way we could get the most exposure to Cape Town. She explained that she was just a driver and not a tour guide, but she did a grand job! The cost for the day was 3750 SA rand, that worked out to approximately $375 NZD. We thought it was a bargain, and the bonus was getting to know Faghmeda and hearing about everyday life in South Africa.
Boulder Beach has penguins, and for 50 SA rand (no conversion here, you should be able to work it out, just move the decimal point 1 place to the left). The beach was very ‘bouldery’, hence the name, and there were hundreds of penguins going about their business. A board walk provided easy access to view the penguins.
Our next stop was lunch and we requested a vineyard lunch. Her first choice was closed for renovations, but the 2nd choice was just lovely, with views across the valley. The drive to La Parada in Constantia led us into the hills where we saw some beautiful homes, all with fences topped with electric security fencing or spikes. I also spotted a sign saying ‘Beware of baboons’. Faghmeda said that in some areas the baboons are no threat and wander freely. But in others they can be quite fierce.
Back to lunch, we had tapas and every dish was superb and of course it was accompanied by a rose and the green bottle (Heineken).
Back on the coastal road we stopped at Chapmans peak. A viewing area was perched on the side of the mountain and it was packed with tourists taking photos. Once we got out of the car we could see why. Take a look at these photos.
Driving back through to the city we passed extremes of accomodation. Shanty towns where people were living in small corrugated iron boxes had washing blowing in the breeze. At Camp’s Bay Beach the homes were palatial, and an up market beachside strip was abuzz with bars and restaurants.
Faghmeda explained that some of the houses were up to 10,000,000 SA rand to purchase. Again, do the maths (well I am a teacher), that is only 1,000,000 NZD, that is average price for a home in Auckland.
We have also found the food and beverages to be much cheaper than at home. Only 550 SA rand for a Heineken, and 650 rand for a glass of pinot noir, that when poured actually comes half way up the glass, not like the thimble full we get in NZ. I am enjoying the South African wines and may have to add some to my collection when I get home!
Back in the city Faghmeda took us to the ‘painted houses’ of Bo-Kaap.
Bo-Kaap was formerly known as the Malay Quarter as it was inhabited by Cape Malays. Those were slaves who were brought from Malaysia, Indonesia, and the rest of the African continent to work in the city.
Iin the 1760s, Cape Dutch and Georgian rental houses, known as “huurhuisjes”, were built and leased to slaves. The rule was that all houses, that were aligned by cobbled roads, had to be white. But when this rule was lifted and the slaves became able to purchase their houses, they decided to paint them in the brightest colors as a metaphor for freedom! The home owners continue to celebrate the freedom by painting the Bo-Kaapa’a house bright colours today.
Lance and I got ready and tapped on Sandi’s door at the arranged time. She didn’t answer this first time, and on the second knock came to the door. She had nodded off and was fast asleep! The poor thing had to slip on her shoes and be ready to go! She was a bit dazed!
Our pick up arrived and Yusuf greeted us and whisked us off to the venue. We have been to many of these touristy types of nights and expected the usual and maybe a buffet with African food to try.
What a lovely surprise when we were led to our own table, and not in some mish mash of other tourists. On our chairs were our drums and with drinks ordered our drummer took to the stage and coached the whole place in drumming. It was a lot of fun and we are now experts! All of the servers were wearing colourful African dresses and head scarves and looked after us with smiles and banter. Intermittently the dance group would either jump onto the stage or arrive alongside the tables, singing and dancing in true African fashion. It was really accelerating and just filled me up. In fact at one stage I had tears in my eyes. I still can’t believe we are here!
Needless to say, we slept well
Mist enveloping the mountain.
Mist enveloping the mountain.
No comments:
Post a Comment