Saturday, 22 August 2026

A day in Arashyama 21 August Day 4

 After our feast the previous night we were up early to get to Arashiyama before the crowds and before the day heated up too much.

We had the option to catch the train, but the station at Arashiyama is a short walk to the main gate and we wanted to start as close to the bamboo forest as possible before too many people spoiled our experience. The taxi took us right to the path leading to the bamboo forest and was about a $60 fare. The forest walk was quite short but well worth the visit.


A small fee was paid to enter the Tenryu-ji Temple and garden, it was very peaceful and we had a wee wander, actually a wee as well, and sat and enjoyed the beautiful view.


We were not quite sure where to head next and it was beginning to hit 34 degrees when we came across Lucas. Lucas is a stunning looking individual who provides rickshaw tours. He assured us that we would fit and it was a bit of a squeeze but we made it. Lucas took us along pathways in the forest that we would have been unlikely to find, it was a marvel how he managed to haul us along and up small hills at a trot. He stopped frequently to explain the history and interesting facts. 


Lucas is from New Caledonia and is fluent in French (of course), English, Japanese and Spanish.  He had promised to take us to a place where no one else would be. And sure enough we arrived at a small shrine; we had to pay a small fee to enter. The garden was really lovely and made to look like a river. There was also a pretty pink tree called in English crape myrtle but in Japanese it is sarusuberi which translates to monkey slip as the tree has very smooth branches.


Continuing on Lucas took us through a residential area where the homes were very traditional, but the nice cars were very modern. It is quite an affluent neighbourhood and has beautiful views of the mountains.


We were dropped in the Main Street of Arashiyama where there were plenty of eating places and retail stores with a real village feel. By this time Lucas was dripping with sweat, and was off to find another customer. The 70 minute tour was 23,000 yen (approx $230 NZ dollars) which was quite expensive but well worth it, as we would never have seen even a smidgen of what he showed us by ourselves.


The train station is a 10 minute walk from the Main Street and by now it was 36 degrees. As usual a train was right there and we jumped on, thankful for the aircon.

We have used taxis a lot in Kyoto. It has made things easier, especially in the heat, and most fares have been under $20. But we didn’t need a taxi to get to dinner tonight!

Using ‘Tabelog’, an app for finding and booking Japanese restaurants, Lance found Hiro which was just around the corner. Once again it was a meaty meal; we even asked for veges but they only had shredded lettuce.

My menu had English and I didn’t realise that Lance was trying to translate his menu! Pig hormones? Really? Fortunately the young waiter gave him an English menu and we ordered pork cheek, skirt steak, which we cooked over a hibachi bbq. It all tasted pretty good so we ordered another load and also some beef rib, which was paper thin with marbled fat and was delicious.


Back at the hotel we enjoyed a couple of drinks before bed. Off to Osaka tomorrow!

Toilet tips and talk:

One of the panels that I had to use Google translate on.

My advice for people in their 50s and over is to take your glasses with you to the loo and your phone. This not so that you can scroll through social media whilst using the restroom. It is to read the abundance and variety of instructions for ‘toileting’, some of which are all in Japanese, and you will need Google translate hence the phone.

All commodes have a washing button for front and rear, some include ‘oscillating’, more or less pressure, up or down positioning, blow dry, and sound. Most have cold water, which after the initial surprise, is quite refreshing in this heat.

The available sounds so far have been water running: I don’t know if this is to encourage a reluctant urination or to drown out embarrassing toilet noises. But they haven’t lived in our house, they need a tsunami setting rather than the sound of a trickling stream.

The flush: some receptacles have a flush button with a swirling water icon, others have no button and the flush is automatic, although I have had a few flushes whilst still on board the toilet. I have spent many minutes standing waiting to see if there will be a flush, and puzzling over whether it is an automatic late start or not. There other day in frustration I closed the lid (by pushing a button) because I thought that I was just going to have to leave without a flush (wees only) and when the lid closed it flushed! And yesterday in our hotel lobby I stood for ages rereading all of the panel buttons and switches only to find a large mechanical flush button on the wall behind the crapper! Such confusion!

Most public restrooms have a little seat for you to pop your baby in whilst relieving yourself. 


There has been only one normal visit with no bells and whistles and that was for an emergency stop at MacDonalds in Tokyo. I snuck in the exit and ended up walking up 5 floors looking for the loo. I can hear your thinking, but no it wasn’t a huge MacDonalds; each floor was a tiny segment in a triangular corner of the building. At the fifth floor, with waves of sweat and panic, I thought that I would have to run back to the hotel. Whilst waiting for the lift I saw that the ladies was on the 2nd floor. Phew! 



Friday, 21 August 2026

Tokyo to Kyoto August 20 Day 3

Travelling between cities in Japan is made seamless by the excellent train system, and even better is the luggage transfer service. 

After breakfast at the hotel, oh the breakfast! I need to talk about that. The breakfast at the Groove Hotel cost more than our evening meals, but then our meals have been very cheap. Hotel breakfast buffets come in an array of qualities, and this hotel was really nice. They have all of the usual array to choose from, but everything was really delicious.

The transfer service will take your luggage from hotel to hotel, and the hotel arranges it for you. I believe short distances will only take a day, and we were told that from Tokyo to Osaka it would arrive the following afternoon. Now if you have been observant you would have noticed that the title of this post is Tokyo to Kyoto, not Osaka. Our cunning plan was to send the large cases on to Osaka and pack small cases with all we need for two days in Kyoto. So far so good, and hopefully our luggage will be in Osaka when we arrive. Although I have misplaced the luggage receipt!

Hotel Groove is only a short walk to the train station. We had purchased our Shinkansen (bulletin train) tickets on our first day in Tokyo when we were with Suchi our guide. It was very easy to purchase them from the machine at the station, or I believe you can also buy them at the manned booth. We paid a bit extra for ‘comfort’ and chose seats on the right hand side for a view of Mt Fuji. But she was shrouded in cloud so we only saw her feet!

The station was busy when we arrived at 10:30am. Our train was scheduled to depart at 11:18am but we wanted plenty of time to find our platform and to buy something to eat on the train. Please note that eating on the normal trains is frowned upon, but it is okay to eat on the Shinkansen. Lance waited by the turn off lane to Platform 18 and I set off to get some food. Finding a lovely little place with boxed yummy things I got sushi and an array of sandwiches. There was a moment of panic when I didn’t recognise the shops that I had taken note of on my way to the food shop. Navigating my way inside buildings is my achilles heel and I knew that this had the capacity to go horribly wrong! Backtracking to the food shop I found my way back to Lance just as he was messaging me to see if I was okay. Phew!

Waiting for the Shinkansen 

The Shinkansen was great; our seats were spacious and comfortable and the 2 hour trip flew by. And the sandwiches were delicious! I don’t know how they keep the bread so soft and fresh!

Delicious assortment of sandwiches!
Some sort of tasty sausage meat crumbed and deep fried.

Kyoto is quite different to Tokyo, tiny narrow streets run off the main roads and buildings are more traditional. Our hotel, The Mercure Station Hotel, is nice and the room is a bit more spacious, with a view across to some mountains. It is hotter here, 36 degrees, and even more humid!

After checking in we grabbed a taxi to Nishiki Market. This is a 400 year old market lined with food stalls, fresh and cooked. It is a narrow five block mall and high coloured glass roofs protect it from the weather. Honestly it just goes on and on, moving from food to retail shops.

A month ago, after watching many you tube clips on places to eat in Kyoto, we made a reservation at Wagyu Ryotei Bungo Gion. The food looked amazing and it also had a set price which was a bonus. We were prepared to pay good money, but didn’t want it to be thousands!

The taxi dropped us off and we entered the not very salubrious looking door. We were met and asked to remove our shoes as we stepped up onto the raised floor. One long table sat in the narrow room and was almost at floor level, fortunately our feet dangled in a cavity below rather than having to sit cross legged because this would have broken Lance! 

A young man attended to us and it was a bit weird because on the other side of the table seemed to have the kitchen hidden behind two roller blinds and the chap, who we later found out was called Soshi, had to bob right down to get under it to go back and forth. Our drinks arrived and one other couple came and sat at the other end of the table, which had capacity for twelve. All of a sudden the lights went out and I thought, oh boy this place might be a bit disappointing. After a minute the roller blinds went up and five men stood at the kitchen counter with one saying something like commands in Japanese, They all answered in unison, bowed to us and began their tasks. 

Several cuts of Wagyu Kobe beef had been placed in front of us and explained, and the menu of 14 courses looked fabulous and they asked if we wanted to exchange the tongue for another cut of meat, which we did. They also checked to see if we were okay with raw meat, which we were. And so it began …

Every morsel of meat was melt in your mouth, you hardly needed to chew, I’m not exaggerating! And full of flavour from the rendered fat that filtered through the whole cut.

Omi Wagyu Nigiri Sushi. We were advised to eat it in one bite.
Gorgeous sake glass. 
Three of the courses had an accompanying beverage of sake. 

 
Wagyu prosciutto, Awaji Island cheese and Kyoto vegetable salad

Chargrilled tajima  wagyu lean cut with Koji miso



This was a tiny little wagyu burger pattie with mashed potato but I gobbled it up before I took a photo 

Oxtail broth with a thinly sliced radish on top. You push the radish into the soup and eat it. 


Seared Wagyu 
Grilled Wagyu skewer

Marbled Wagyu with black truffle

Nana-Niki Shaba Shaba with Kyoto White Miso and Wagyu Bouillon
This is the ‘flan’ off the menu. But it was a layered savoury dish with wagyu bullion. 
Tsukiakari Rice with Japanese Pickles
Long aged Wagyu sukiyaki

Wagyu Chateaubriand

A little sewer treat where you can choose your filling. I chose red bean.
Can you believe that we squeezed in the Sakura Mont Blanc ice cream !


A day in Arashyama 21 August Day 4

 After our feast the previous night we were up early to get to Arashiyama before the crowds and before the day heated up too much. We had th...