Last two oops no three days in Oaxaca Mexico

Our last couple of days went a bit like this:

Late breakfast at Pan.am which is delicious, and because the hotel buffet has not appeared again after we discovered it.

Lance mucks around in the hotel room and I go for a wander.

Back for some relaxation, a swim and a beer. And maybe lunch beforehand if we can fit it in.

Rest again then out for dinner, then an early night.

The reason the title of this post has been altered is because two days before we were due to fly to Quito Ecuador Sarid messaged us to see if we had heard about the conflict happening in Quito and another city. Apparently a drug lord had escaped from prison and some of his men had charged into the television studio and taking the journalists hostage on live TV. They held guns to their heads and put explosives in their face and in their pockets. Chaos broke out and the president declared an internal armed conflict and a 60 day civil emergency. Schools are working virtually and workers have been asked to stay home. BUT… the travel safe sites have said use caution if travelling there and airports are open. We have been in contact with the NZ consulate in Bogotá Columbia, which represents Ecuador and they said that they can’t advise us and we need to make our own decision, but the quotes they gave us help us make our decision:

On 8 January 2024, the President declared a 60-day State of Emergency following the escape of a major criminal from prison and subsequent prison riots, which has led to an increase in criminal activity nationwide. There have been reports of a series of explosions, shootings, vehicles set on fire and the abduction of police officials and prison security guards.

 

A daily curfew is in place nationwide from 2300-0500 hours. If you’re travelling to/from the airport, you will need to show your passport or ID and relevant boarding pass or flight itinerary. New Zealanders are advised to be extra vigilant, avoid public and crowded areas, monitor local media for developments and comply with any instructions and restrictions issued by the local authorities.

So we pulled the plug, rang Southern Cross Insurance and our travel agent Samara Liyanage from Flight Centre.

Intrepid Travel told us that because the boat tour to the Galapagos was still going ahead, and that they have had people land and get to the tour safely they will not be cancelling the tour. So no refund. Southern Cross also said that because Ecuador has classed the emergency at a level 2 and not a 3 or 4 then we are not covered. I guess a level 2 in Ecuador is very different to how it would be classed in our own country, New Zealand. However Southern Cross has said that a claim may be considered if we more or less plead our case. So a hefty loss for us for the Galapagos Tour and 4 days in Quito, and $5000 extra to change our plans.  It was cheaper to stay in Houston for four days than it was to fly home straight away. So we will finish in a different style but will make the most of it. Any suggestions of cheap things to do in Houston would be appreciated. We have been there before and done NASA. A positive is that it doesn’t look too cold there . . . until the morning we fly which has a low of -7 and a high of 1 degree Celsius. May be a room service breakfast!

We have been in ‘civil unrest’ before. Regularly when we lived in Papua New Guinea and once when staying in Athens. And even though they were a bit scary. we weren’t dealing with gang lords and Narcos types of gangsters. We feel that we have made the right decision and those of you who know Lance well will know his famous quote ‘It’s only money’. 

Enough of the drama and let’s focus on Central Oaxaca. It is the most beautiful place, and we arrived at the right time. I had assumed that the beautiful bunting and hanging piñata were here all year round, but this morning I walked outside and it was gone! Along with most of the markets close to where we are.

All of this bunting has now disappeared

The people are so nice and service and hospitality in the hotel, restaurants, cafes, shops, markets in fact everywhere you go is genuine and very good. There are lots of Mexican people visiting from other parts of the country and many of the tourists are American. I keep spotting elderly woman in dresses comfortable shoes, an apron that fits over their shoulders and braids or a scarf wound round like a turban. Most are quite tiny but wirey in stature. They are probably only my age! I have wanted to take a photo but it seemed bad manners, so sorry, no pic.

The language: many people have English or at least some and if not my Duolingo Espanol has been working. In fact a couple of times I have started with a request in Spanish and then they start talking to me in Spanish. They quickly realise that I don’t have much! Lance is doing okay and says hello and thank you and now a few more words. He is very good at mime and also works out what is being said from the situation. Although several times he has called me in to help.

Shopping: the tourist markets which have now disappeared are still pretty cheap, but you may pay a bit less at Mercado 20 de Novembre which is a quick walk from our hotel and this is where the local people shop as well as some touristy things. I have noted that there are very few flies or smells. There are also high end shops close to where we are staying where a beautiful dress is the equivalent of 700 or 800 New Zealand dollars.

The pet stall had bunnies, mice and iguana. I was worried that they may be for dinner but they also sold cages. Maybe to hold them and fatten them up?

Mezcal

Fancy chicken for dinner?

A butcher stall

Tripe, trotters and hooves

Grasshoppers, nuts and other tasty treats.

The weather is fabulous, most days have a high of around 28 degrees Celsius and a low of 11 or 12. Today was 30 and hot but not oppressive, as the humidity is nothing like we have in Auckland. We have had blue skies every day, and this is their winter! 

The buildings all around an old and full of character, even those that are in disrepair . Apparently they are not allowed to build new and must keep with the character of the the surroundings. Further out of Central Oaxaca there are new buildings, shopping centre and Mac Donald’s! Today I passed Domino’s Pizza on my way to the market, why, why, why when there is so much delicious food that is so cheap! I got a doughnut for Lance that was full of custard today and it was equivalent to $1.50 NZ.

Roof top bars are everywhere and we have tried a few. Again the food is great, but more expensive but nowhere near what we would pay at home. Lance has been drinking Heineken at most places or Corona. I have found a few Mexican red wines that are really lovely, I will be looking out for some in New Zealand.

The art: is everywhere, beautiful graffiti that rivals Banksy, handmade items in shops and clay work. 

There are a few people begging on the street, some elderly woman and some mothers with their children. When we leave tomorrow we will drop some pesos in the bowl of a young woman we pass most days, sometimes with her children and sometimes not.

This evening we will return to a lovely rooftop bar restaurant for dinner and drink to the lovely Oaxaca holiday that we have enjoyed.