16 August Victoria Falls
After a delicious hotel breakfast of fresh fruit, yoghurt, bacon, sausage and egg, and a delicious croissant we were ready to take on our next adventure, a visit to Victoria Falls. But not before Sandi let out a strangled squeal as we left our room. Quite a large spider was sitting on the wall. Well large by New Zealand standards, it was probably just a baby as far as African spiders go. Anyway, he or she has disappeared behind the mirror.
Our guide Thelma picked us up from the hotel and we were soon at Victoria Falls National Park. Raincoats were received from a little lady at the market outside the park and with a promise that we would return to her stall on our way out we paid our $50US and entered the park. When researching it was mentioned that credit card use may be a problem here due to unstable internet. However our guide asked if we were using card or cash, like it was usually fine to use either, We had cash just in case.
All of the paths were wide and easy to traverse, although Lance is currently complaining of sore feet. We did see several people managing with wheel chairs, so that gives you an idea of how easy it was.
Initially the bush was sparse and very dry. At one point we came across small monkeys wrestling on the path. Thelma got a stick and said that sometimes they can be naughty. She was quite cautious as we walked past. The harder you looked in the trees the more monkeys you saw. But only at this one point of the trail.
We also spotted some sort of deer.
As we approached the falls the roar became louder, and the bush thicker and greener. Our first view took our breath away, and this happened time and time again. Each view was a little different and equally a little more wonderful.
Victoria Falls or Mosi-oa-Tonya (the smoke that thunders) as it is known to local people, Dr Livingstone discovered the falls in the 1850s. Well discovered is not really accurate as his guide led him to the falls. But he was a great explorer and fell in love with Africa and its people. His heart was buried in Northern Zambia by his trusted companions Sussi and Chuma. They preserved the rest of him and carried him back to the coast to be shipped back to Great Britain.
The Zambezi river flows through six countries on its journey from its source in north-western Zambia to the Indian Ocean, an amazing 2 700 km. And it is the fourth longest river in Africa. As it winds its way through Zambia it drops into what appears to be a gigantic crack in the earth’s crust and that is Victoria falls.
There are 14 viewing spots on the Zimbabwe side of the falls, the falls serve as a border between Zimbabwe and Zambia. It is a bit like the Eiffel Tower, you just can’t stop taking photos!
Thelma our guide was just lovely and was very informative. She said that she comes to the falls nearly every day and every day it is wonderful. At the moment the water is not too full and not too dry. In the wetter season she said that you can’t see much of the falls because of the spray. We did don our raincoats from time to time but we didn’t get very wet at all. In fact as the day got warmer it was a little light relief to feel have the spray fall on you. And fall it did, even though you could see it coming up from the bottom, it was still dropping down on you.
The barriers were non existent in places and are often just a tangle of thorns. Although at some points they have a single chain to stop you walking over the edge.
All too soon out time with Thelma was over. We had to pass through customs to pass over the bridge to Zambia. I had been in a bit of a dilemma with regard to the purchase of visas. You can apply and buy your visa online, or at the border. I chose to get our visas online and it was absolutely the right thing to do. We needed multiple entries into Zimbabwe and one entry into Zambia and the KAZA visa did the trick.It was about $50 NZD. Do get it before you leave home as you need to print it out and give it to customs when you arrive in Zimbabwe. Which is what we did with our fairy godmother customs man yesterday.
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| Sitting on a truck waiting to cross the border. I hope he has his passport. |
Having a tour guide was also a blessing. Crossing the border is not difficult, but it took away all uncertainty when Thelma took charge. Once we were through the Zimbabwe boarder we were in ‘No mans land’ and Thelma arranged a taxi to take us the short distance into Zambia where we passed through and customs check and met our Zambian guide Mike.
Viewing the falls from both sides is really recommended. The Zambia side has quite a different perspective and much less mist. Although there were points where we got wetter! The park fee is $20 US and cash is the only option.
At the top of the falls by Livingstone Island we spotted some men fishing and Mike also pointed out a large dead Hippo! Does this count as wildlife spotting? I guess not, because it was wild death not life.
The bridge that joins Zimbabwe to Zambia was built in 1905 and this made a huge difference as trains, vehicle and people on foot could now travel between the 2 countries.
The people we have encountered in both Zimbabwe and Zambia have been so friendly. There are loads of smiles, laughter and banter all of the time. We have been told that we will be safe in Zimbabwe because everybody relies on tourism as an income in some form. And they know that more people will come if it is a safe place. They say that the only threat is the wild animals. They have not been pushy at the markets at all. Whereas on the Zambian border we were constantly approached by men selling copper bracelets or old Zimbabwean billion dollar notes. They were pleasant enough but pushy. Everyone asks where we are from and whenever we say New Zealand they reply “All Blacks”. Except for our customs officer fairy god mother who said “ahhh, the Haka.”
This evening we meet our tour guide and travellers, hope we get a good lot.
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