16 August 2025 Victoria Falls

 16 August Victoria Falls

After a delicious hotel breakfast of fresh fruit, yoghurt, bacon, sausage and egg, and a delicious croissant we were ready to take on our next adventure, a visit to Victoria Falls. But not before Sandi let out a strangled squeal as we left our room. Quite a large spider was sitting on the wall. Well large by New Zealand standards, it was probably just a baby as far as African spiders go. Anyway, he or she has disappeared behind the mirror.

Our guide Thelma picked us up from the hotel and we were soon at Victoria Falls National Park. Raincoats were received from a little lady at the market outside the park and with a promise that we would return to her stall on our way out we paid our $50US and entered the park. When researching it was mentioned that credit card use may be a problem here due to unstable internet. However our guide asked if we were using card or cash, like it was usually fine to use either, We had cash just in case.

All of the paths were wide and easy to traverse, although Lance is currently complaining of sore feet. We did see several people managing with wheelchairs, so that gives you an idea of how easy it was. 

Initially, the bush was sparse and very dry. At one point, we came across small monkeys wrestling on the path. Thelma got a stick and said that sometimes they can be naughty. She was quite cautious as we walked past. The harder you looked in the trees, the more monkeys you saw. But only at this one point of the trail.

We also spotted some sort of deer.

As we approached the falls, the roar became louder, and the bush thicker and greener.  Our first view took our breath away, and this happened time and time again. Each view was a little different and equally a little more wonderful.

Victoria Falls or Mosi-oa-Tunya (the smoke that thunders), as it is known to local people, was discovered by Dr Livingstone in the 1850s. Well discovered is not really accurate, as his guide led him to the falls. But he was a great explorer and fell in love with Africa and its people. His heart was buried in Northern Zambia by his trusted companions, Sussi and Chuma. They preserved the rest of him and carried him back to the coast to be shipped back to Great Britain.

The Zambezi River flows through six countries on its journey from its source in north-western Zambia to the Indian Ocean, an amazing 2 700 km. It is the fourth-longest river in Africa. As it winds its way through Zambia, it drops into what appears to be a gigantic crack in the earth’s crust, and that is Victoria Falls.

There are 14 viewing spots on the Zimbabwe side of the falls; the falls serve as a border between Zimbabwe and Zambia. It is a bit like the Eiffel Tower, you just can’t stop taking photos!

Thelma, our guide, was just lovely and was very informative. She said that she comes to the falls nearly every day, and every day it is wonderful.  At the moment, the water is not too full, and not too dry. In the wetter season she said that you can’t see much of the falls because of the spray. We did don our raincoats from time to time, but we didn’t get very wet at all. In fact, as the day got warmer, it was a little light relief to feel the spray fall on you. And fall it did, even though you could see it coming up from the bottom, it was still dropping down on you. 

The barriers were non-existent in places and are often just a tangle of thorns. Although at some points they have a single chain to stop you from walking over the edge.

All too soon our time with Thelma was over. We had to pass through customs to pass over the bridge into Zambia. I had been in a bit of a dilemma regarding the purchase of visas. You can apply for and buy your visa online or at the border.  I chose to get our visas online, and it was absolutely the right thing to do. We needed multiple entries into Zimbabwe and one entry into Zambia, and the KAZA visa did the trick. It was about $50 NZD. Do get it before you leave home, as you need to print it out and give it to customs when you arrive in Zimbabwe. Which is what we did with our fairy godmother customs man yesterday. 

Sitting on a truck waiting to cross the border. I hope he has his passport. 

Hundreds of trucks were lined up waiting to cross the border. 

Having a tour guide was also a blessing. Crossing the border is not difficult, but it took away all uncertainty when Thelma took charge. Once we were through the Zimbabwe boarder we were in ‘No mans land’, and Thelma arranged a taxi to take us the short distance into Zambia, where we passed through customs check and met our Zambian guide Mike.

Viewing the falls from both sides is really recommended. The Zambia side has quite a different perspective and much less mist. Although there were points where we got wetter! The park fee is $20 US, and cash is the only option.

At the top of the falls by Livingstone Island we spotted some men fishing and Mike also pointed out a large dead Hippo! Does this count as wildlife spotting? I guess not, because it was wild death, not life. 

The bridge that joins Zimbabwe to Zambia was built in 1905, and this made a huge difference as trains, vehicles, and people on foot could now travel between the 2 countries.

The people we have encountered in both Zimbabwe and Zambia have been so friendly. There are loads of smiles, laughter and banter all the time. We have been told that we will be safe in Zimbabwe because everybody relies on tourism as an income in some form. And they know that more people will come if it is a safe place. They say that the only threat is the wild animals. They have not been pushy at the markets at all. Whereas on the Zambian border we were constantly approached by men selling copper bracelets or old Zimbabwean billion dollar notes. They were pleasant enough but pushy. Everyone asks where we are from and whenever we say New Zealand they reply “All Blacks”. Except for our customs officer fairy godmother who said “ahhh, the Haka.”

This evening we meet our tour guide and travellers, and hope we get a good lot.

15 August 2025 Cape Town to Zimbabwe

 We were up early, packed, breakfasted, toileted and ready by 7am. Once again, Wolf Shuttles ferried us to the airport. I can highly recommend them. They are easy to book, reliable and have considerate, helpful drivers. Our fare from the airport to our hotel at V & A was 620 SA rand and 580 SA rand return to the airport. This was for three people with cases. 

Cape Town International Airport is pretty easy to navigate through, and after a little duty-free shopping, we were seated and ready to fly. The beauty of duty-free shopping is that your bags have already been weighed and are out of your hands! By the way, our bags weighed in at 20.1, 20.5 and 20.4. How’s that for perfect packing?

We had a great flight, and each managed a window seat in the hope that as we approached Victoria Falls Airport, we might spy some wildlife. An added bonus was that the toilet had air freshener! I have never seen that before, and before you ask, yes I did need to use it.

Our seats were not in business class for this flight, hence the 20kg limit, and we were seated right at the back of the plane. Which, of course, meant that we were pretty much at the back of the queue waiting to go through customs.

Actually, we were so far back that we were standing outside, and an official-looking chap came past and got us all to move over to the side so vehicles could pass by. Lance did his usual friendly chatty thing and said gidday and had a bit of banter. 

The chap asked who Lance was travelling with and asked for our passports, and then whisked us away past all of the others waiting, past the front of the queue and over to the person checking passports. He gave him our documents, got them checked off, then took us to the next area and asked us to sit down and wait for him, and he left. We sat feeling a mixture of bewilderment, smugness, and a tincy worm of worry. What if we never saw our passports again?

Soon he was back with our Visa documentation, and took us right through to the luggage collection area and started to help with our bags. We said thanks, and Lance shook his hand, and he was gone. Lance did wonder if he should have given a tip of some sort, but how would that look? Bribery to get through customs? Anyway, we were gobsmacked! Our fellow passengers were still waiting, and we were through!

After scanning our luggage, we emerged into the airport lobby to look for our transfer. And of course, in a place like thi,s everyone has a transfer, and not many of the other passengers had emerged yet. It was almost like paparazzi with signs instead of cameras. We found our man and headed out to the van.

Another passenger was with us, but she needed wheelchair assistance, so had been prioritised. She was from Perth and was 83 years old, and this was her seventh trip to Zimbabwe. She said the people are so lovely and always look after her, and she was off on a self-arranged safari! And you will recall that I mentioned that she needed assistance to leave the airport! 

Our driver gave us a rundown on things about Zimbabwe as we drove through the very dry and dusty landscape. We had to slow down for some goats, and then for a couple of huge baboons! Our first real wild animal! I’m afraid that I didn’t get a photo, but I feel confident that we will see another soon.

Arriving at the Cresta Sprayview Hotel, we were taken to a corner of the lobby to sit on some sofas for check-in, and as our rooms were not ready until three, we really had no other option than to sit in a shady spot by the pool and drink Zambezi beer and have a platter and some cheesy chips.

Our rooms are more than okay and have all that we need, including air conditioning and wifi. We are back to the Hotel restaurant for dinner and sense that it will not be a repeat experience of our last hotel.

Tomorrow? Victoria Falls!!!

14 August 2025 Shopping in Cape Town

We had an easy day planned and thought about a late breakfast. However, after the missing items at our hotel dinner experience, we thought we should get down to the restaurant earlier rather than later, just in case they had run out! But it was fine, and breakfast was great. 

Lance’s sunglasses had broken, so he joined Sandi and me for a little bit of shopping. When I say a ‘little’, I mean a ‘little’.  He had purchased his glasses and then left us to it within an hour. And that included the 10 minutes to walk to the V & A Waterfront. 

Sandi and I had a lovely stroll and did make a few purchases. Prices vary, but many things are cheaper than at home. Restraint was required as the next day we were flying to Victoria Falls with a 20kg luggage limit. 

If we were to do this trip over, we agreed that Cape Town should be later in the trip to avoid luggage restraints. 

The people that we have encountered have all been really lovely. There is such a friendly and helpful vibe, and lots of laughter. There is almost a Polynesian feel to the community. We have also seen some stunning men and women with fantastic hair and outfits. People are calling out to each other and chatting in Xhosa, please don’t ask me how to pronounce that!

Our shopping experience was varied with shops like Country Road that we have in New Zealand, and Woolworths, which we do have in New Zealand, but not like this. Woolworths here is not for food. Or even like DEKA, those of you who are old enough to remember DEKA. It is more like a David Jones department store. 

Taking advantage of the free cyclo service

The African tourist shops are a delight and not too cheesy at all. In fact, one we went to was really upmarket and had all sorts of handmade beaded items that were magnificent. 

The African Trading Company is in a very old wooden multi-story building down by the water and is packed with handmade items, large and small. Life-size carved wooden and stone animals stand guard outside and are all for sale. Inside is filled with mainly carved masks, statues, dinner tables, and more. 

    

If you are coming to Cape Town, I recommend you stay close to V & A. There is a lot happening, and it is reasonably safe. Security and police are everywhere. A hotel a bit closer would have been better for us, as even though we are only a 10-minute walk, we were reluctant to take the risk of walking at night. And apparently Uber can be risky as well. 

Because of this, we chose our hotel restaurant once more for our final meal. The waiter was really great and tried so hard to accommodate us. But when there were minimal dishes available, and still no Heineken or pina colada, it made it hard for him to do his job well. When we finally ordered, he came back to tell us it would be a long wait for our food. And then when it finally came, they had run out of …chips! 

Honestly, it was like being in Fawlty Towers. 

It has been nice having Sandi with us.  And one of the bonuses is that if a noise accidentally (or not accidentally) bursts out of your body, it is okay! 

There were not many photos to post today. Tomorrow we fly to Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe, and I feel confident we will be taking a load of photos over the next two weeks! 

Tour of Cape Town - 13 August 2025

After a reasonable night's sleep, we headed downstairs to see if the restaurant had any food for breakfast. After our experience of missing beef dishes, no cocktail mixer and only a single Heineken available last night, we weren’t holding our breaths. Never be a doubter! Breakfast was grand, with lovely sausages and bacon that tasted like they were off the farm.

Our driver Faghmeda picked us up at 8am, and we headed to Table Mountain. The skies were blue with not a cloud in the sky, so we were hopeful the views would be amazing, and we were not disappointed. An early start is essential as the queues can be horrific. Fortunately, Faghmeda dropped us at the top where the gondola starts. Cars were already parked for about a kilometre down the mountain road.

Tickets are 490 S.A rand or close to $50 NZD. You can buy them online to avoid queuing twice, but being nice and early made it a pretty quick experience for us. Also, we are off-season.

It was a little disconcerting being crammed into the large circular gondola, almost like catching a train in Japan in rush hour. The gondola slowly spins to give everyone a view as we ascend.

Already the cloud was beginning to roll in. It sits atop Table Mountain, and they call it the tablecloth.

It was certainly brisk when we alighted from the gondola, but not windy, so not too unpleasant. The views were outstanding, and we expected it to be flat on top, but it was quite rugged. Paths and stairs made it easy to navigate, and several viewing areas made the vistas available from every angle.

















Soon the mist began to envelop the mountain, and it was time for us to descend. Alas, Sandi had lost her return ticket. Yes ‘return, you can purchase a one-way ticket and walk down, or abseil down! Crazy!




I did spot this sign. What on earth is a Dassie? Google tells me that it is also called a cape hyrax, and has provided this pic. Looks like a quoka to me!





Anyway, we located the ticket office and in no time Sandi had a replacement ticket. We had to give our phone numbers when purchasing, and this efficient system meant that Sandi’s ticket could be easily replaced.


A Lance sort of bus

Back in the car with Faghmeda, she whisked us off to Boulder Beach, taking the inland route, and we would take the coastal route on our return. This way, we could get the most exposure to Cape Town. She explained that she was just a driver and not a tour guide, but she did a grand job! The cost for the day was 3750 SA rand, which worked out to approximately $375 NZD. We thought it was a bargain, and the bonus was getting to know Faghmeda and hearing about everyday life in South Africa.

Boulder Beach has penguins, and for 50 SA rand (no conversion here, you should be able to work it out, just move the decimal point 1 place to the left). The beach was very ‘bouldery’, hence the name, and there were hundreds of penguins going about their business. A boardwalk provided easy access to view the penguins.

Our next stop was lunch, and we requested a vineyard lunch. Her first choice was closed for renovations, but the 2nd choice was just lovely, with views across the valley. The drive to La Parada in Constantia led us into the hills, where we saw some beautiful homes, all with fences topped with electric security fencing or spikes. I also spotted a sign saying ‘Beware of baboons’. Faghmeda said that in some areas, the baboons are no threat and wander freely. But in others, they can be quite fierce.













Back to lunch, we had tapas, and every dish was superb, and of course it was accompanied by a rosé and the green bottle (Heineken).

Back on the coastal road, we stopped at Chapman's Peak. A viewing area was perched on the side of the mountain, and it was packed with tourists taking photos. Once we got out of the car, we could see why. Take a look at these photos.










Driving back through to the city, we passed extremes of accommodation. Shanty towns where people were living in small corrugated iron boxes had washing blowing in the breeze. At Camp’s Bay Beach, the homes were palatial, and an upmarket beachside strip was abuzz with bars and restaurants.

Faghmeda explained that some of the houses were up to 10,000,000 SA rand to purchase. Again, do the maths (well, I am a teacher) that is only 1,000,000 NZD, which is the average price for a home in Auckland.

We have also found the food and beverages to be much cheaper than at home. Only 550 SA rand for a Heineken, and 650 rand for a glass of pinot noir, which, when poured, actually comes halfway up the glass, not like the thimble full we get in NZ. I am enjoying the South African wines and may have to add some to my collection when I get home!

Back in the city, Faghmeda took us to the ‘painted houses’ of Bo-Kaap.
Bo-Kaap was formerly known as the Malay Quarter, as it was inhabited by Cape Malays. Those were slaves who were brought from Malaysia, Indonesia, and the rest of the African continent to work in the city.
In the 1760s, Cape Dutch and Georgian rental houses, known as “huurhuisjes”, were built and leased to slaves. The rule was that all houses that were aligned by cobbled roads had to be white. But when this rule was lifted, and the slaves became able to purchase their houses, they decided to paint them in the brightest colours as a metaphor for freedom! The home owners continue to celebrate the freedom by painting the Bo-Kaapa’a house bright colours today.

Faghmeda delivered us safely home after our big day, and we took some time for some R & R before our evening outing. Our fabulous travel agent had gifted me an evening of African drumming, dancing and food for the three of us as a birthday gift!

Lance and I got ready and tapped on Sandi’s door at the arranged time. She didn’t answer the first time, and on the second knock came to the door. She had nodded off and was fast asleep! The poor thing had to slip on her shoes and be ready to go! She was a bit dazed!

Our pickup arrived, and Yusuf greeted us and whisked us off to the venue. We have been to many of these touristy types of nights and expected the usual, with maybe a buffet of African food to try.

What a lovely surprise when we were led to our own table, and not in some mish-mash of other tourists. On our chairs were our drums, and with drinks ordered, our drummer took to the stage and coached the whole place in drumming. It was a lot of fun and we are now experts! All of the servers were wearing colourful African dresses and head scarves and looked after us with smiles and banter. Intermittently, the dance group would either jump onto the stage or arrive alongside the tables, singing and dancing in true African fashion. It was really exhilarating and just filled me up. In fact, at one stage, I had tears in my eyes. I still can’t believe we are here!

The food! Oh, how we wished that we hadn’t been quite such piggies at lunch. Fourteen dishes were served, and most were really nice. My favourite was the Ostrich.

  

Needless to say, we slept well

Mist envelops the mountain.

10 August 2025 And so begins the ‘African Adventure’! 10 - 12 August 2025

 

The three of us, myself, Lance and my sister Sandi boarded our flight in Auckland with more than a little excitement.

We were about to embark on an adventure that will take us to the continent of Africa via Perth, Australia.

In Africa, we will visit 6 countries for the first time. South Africa, Zimbabwe, Zambia, Botswana, Namibia and Mauritius.

And… South African Airlines had a great deal, which means that we are travelling Business class for most of our adventure. 

After a very relaxing flight of seven and a half hours, we arrived in Perth, where we caught up with our old friends Penny and Martin. The following day, we hired a car and spent the day in Fremantle. Our flight left at midnight that evening, so we had an extra night booked at the Airport Apartments by Vetroblu so we could freshen up before heading off to Africa.

We were embarking on an 11-hour 41-minute flight, with a 3-hour transit in Johannesburg and on to Cape Town (another 2 hours). Johannesburg International Airport (Terminal A), where we landed, is joined to the Domestic (Terminal B) and is an easy stroll without having to leave the building.  

Passing through the security check, I forgot to take my jacket off, and the officer called out to me, “Mumma’ and motioned to take my jacket off. Mumma! I loved it! 

The flight was easy, and we enjoyed our second ‘in the air’ breakfast. The terrain below moved from dry, scorched farmland to rugged and rocky mountains, and as we approached Cape Town everything became green.

I had arranged a shuttle through Wolf Shuttles, and there is nothing better when arriving somewhere new and unfamiliar than seeing someone holding a sign with your name on it. And started our temporary friendship with Faghmeda. She seemed so happy to see us and shook our hands with vigour, grabbed some of our cases and whipped us off to the van.  We loved her instantly and booked her to take us out for a look around the next day.

By then, we were pretty shattered after overnighting mid-air. Business class or not, there is nothing like a shower and a proper bed. It was now 11am, and we couldn’t check in until 2pm, so dropping our cases at the Aha Harbour Bridge Hotel, we wandered alongside the canal to the V & A Waterfront. I do need to digress here and return to our check-in. Taking our passports, the young woman at reception checked the computer for our bookings. Turning to us with a puzzled look, she asked if we were sure we were at this hotel. And perhaps we were booked into their other hotel in town. After limited sleep, you could imagine how we felt. I was confident that we were at the right place, but that little worm inside started to wriggle. “Ha, just joking,” she said. And we all roared laughing, phew!

Aha Harbour Bridge Hotel

Back to the waterfront, we are only a ten-minute stroll away from this buzzy place. It has been beautifully set out with restaurants, bars and retail all sitting in a marina type of place. It is almost like they have trained a dozen or so seals to glide and flip around the boats moored at the docks.

Lance honed in on a great-looking place alongside the water, Harry’s Oyster Bar. I am not sure if it was the comfy seats, the gorgeous waitress with a big smile or the blackboard advertising a seafood crayfish platter that drew him in.

Lounging back, we devoured the platter, supped a drink and licked our fingers. What a great start!

We had spotted some cyclo-type vehicles as we approached V & A (Victoria and Alfred, not Albert). So Lance had a chat with a driver who told him that she could fit our three satisfied and full bodies into her cyclo, and that the ride was free! She was delightful and showed us around the Waterfront, but could not take us as far as our hotel. Setting us down as close as possible, she pointed us in the right direction.

Our rooms are okay, and have everything we need. Sandi is right next door to us, which makes it easy. And we have a view of the majestic Table Top Mountain. However, the room opposite us has the same problem we encountered a year or so ago when we were in Houston. Someone is smoking or vaping large amounts of weed, and it is seeping through into our rooms and is thick in the corridor!  Hopefully, they don’t set the smoke alarm off like they did in Houston at 4am!

Lance needed a nap as soon as we got into our room. And we decided that after 2 breakfasts, copious snacks and a large lunch, we would just pop down to the hotel restaurant. 

Our waiter was just lovely and began by informing us of all the items that were not available on the menu, and there were heaps. Anything that included beef was missing for the night. Sandi ordered a pina colada, but alas, the cocktail mixer was not working tonight, so that was off the menu also. She settled for a Canal sunset, which was delicious. I ordered a Louisiana chicken burger, and he warned me that it was hot. “How hot?” I asked.

“Well, it won’t blow your ears off, but it is hot,” he replied. When I finished, he said, “I’m proud of you.”

Lance, of course, ordered a Heineken, and fortunately, they had one, but when he asked for another, you guessed it, they had run out! I enjoyed a nice South African Merlot!

Full to the brim, we all toddled off to bed and were sound asleep before 9pm.